Method of making turn shoes



Feb. 12, 1929. 1,701,997

v M. L. DODGE METHOD OF MAKING TURN SHOES i d F 20, 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet l Feb.12, 1929. 1,701,997 M. L. DODGE METHOD OF MAKING TURN SHOES Filed Feb. 20, 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Feb. 13, 1929 PATENT OFFICE. V

MILTON IA. DODGE, 0F NEWBTJ'RYLPORT, MASSACHUSETTS.

I mnrrron or innxrne runn SHOES.

Application filed February 20, 1924. SerialNo. 694,130.

This inventionrelates to methods oi? making turn shoes by which the work may be much expedited and by which the number of lasts necessary to produce a given output is very much reduced over methodsheretotore used. For certain grades of shoesalso it is possible with the methods of the present invention to eliminate the necessity of relasting the shoes after the turning operation.

For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be had to the ac companying drawings in which Figure 1 is an elevation partly broken away showing a shoe including a tempered toe stiffener lasted wrong side out.

Figure 2 shows the shoe after it has been removed trom the last and turned and in place in a molding press for molding the entire shank and forepart of the sole to form.

Figure 3 is an elevation partly insect-ion showing the toe portion of the shoe drawn over a heated form tosmooth the lining'and set the toe stifiener.

Figure 4 shows the heel portion of the shoe with a counter stiffener in position and drawn on a heated form to smooth and shape the heel portion.

Figure 5 shows an elevation of the shoe prepared for'the finishing operations.

Figure 6 is an elevationof the shoe as lasted wrong side out and without a toe .stiliener.

Figure 7 is a fragmentary plan of the toe portion of thesame showing the mannerin which the lining may be stitched to facilitate the subsequent positioning of a previously molded toe stiilener.

Figure 8 shows the last drawn, the shoe turned and the forepart and shank of the sole being molded to f'o'rm.

Figure 9 shows the shoe after removal from the press and with the toe stiffener in place shaped and set as aboyedescribed with reready to be shaped on the heated. forms as shown in Figures 3 and l.

When it is desired to use a previously tempered box toe sewed into the shoe upper-before the shoe is assembled the method shown in Figures 1 to, 5 may be employed. Referring to Figure 1, lindicates the last on which theshoe is assembled, 2 the sole; 3 theupper, d th'e doubler; and 5 the vamp lining. Between the doubler 4: and thelining is positioned the toe stiliener 6 which. in this con?" struction isusually formed of fabric treated with a suitable compound which may be treated with a liquid soas' to become soft or temi lered and which becomes hard.

dry. At 7 is indicated the counter lining and at 8 the inseam. The inseam is trimmed and preferably the iorepart oi the sole is pressed so as totlatten the inseam and close up the channel in the sole. 7

The last having been withdrawn and the shoe turned, the bottom of the sole is then molded to form'between molding blocks 10 and 11 as shown in Figure 2. The shoe is then removed from the molding forms and the toe portion is drawn over a form shown at 15 in Figure 3 which maybeheated to expedite the diying of the stiffener if desired. This form is shapedto the contour of the last and acts to shape the box toe and if heated dries out and sets the box toe and at the same time the upperat the toe may be smoothed down to proper form. If the shoeis allowed to dry out on a last to set the toe stiffener, several days may be required for it is impossible for the air to get to the shoe on the inside and the wooden last helps to retain the moisture. With the present method the-shoe is removed from the-form and air is permitted to reach theinside of the shoe so that the drying operation is rapidly effected.

Where the form is heated it is so conditioned that the drying isfurther expedited. If de- "12 and shank piece 14 maythen be assembled in the heel portion of the shoe and the lining tucked inside the counter in proper shape. If desired also, a counter'stiliener softened by treatment with a liquid might be used and lation to the toe stitieneri When a comparatively cheap grade of'shoes is being made where the upper leather is rather heavy, the heel portionof-the shoe may be properly'smoothed and shaped by drawing it ontoa heated metal heel form as shown at 16 in Figure 4; this form beingcomgether being inthe shapeofa last. These forms may be heated in any suitable way, but a convenient means of accomplishing this is by means of the electric heating elements 17 plemental to'the forinlli o'itjFigure 3,'both tono 1 and 18 inserted in suitable openings the forms W here comparatareiycheap shoes are being made-the smoothingiof the heel and toeportions over the forms is sufficient to finish the upper and shape the "shoe Without thenecessity of any relastingoperation,the shoes progressing, also, 1f desired, through the various operations of heeling and finish-- ing While ofi' lasts. WVhe'n thisisdone it is preferable to hold the shoes against buckling orbeing bent in handling by means of spreaders such as strips of rattan or other resilient material 19 .(Figure 5) engaging at opposite ends in the innerfaces of the'toe and counter and of sufficient length to be sprung into p0.-

SitlOILw Where ainoreexpensive grade of shoes is being made the shoe may be relasted afterthe counter is in position. and finished in-the usual manner. lVith' either, method,

' after the shoeshavebeenturned. V

v molded toe. stiffener, the method maybe carried out as follows.

number ogE last-s heretofore necessary to carry the ShOQSdLHlIlg the several days "111 Which drying takes placeare entirely unnecessary.

Wherethecheaper grades of shoes are being made 1t 1s 'unnecessaryto employanylasts In: case it isdesired to use a previously It is preferable where molded toestiffeners are used tostitch the op- ,pos ite edges of the lining. together adjacent thetoe for ashort distance'asshownat 20, in

' 'Figures6 and 7 The upper with the lining l'Thisacts'to smoo lining, which, e0

stitchedinthis manner is then assembled on the last as shownin Figure 6, the lining being unstitched-to the sole foraportion of its length ffrornthe tQe-endi The shoe is stitched ,on thelast and the-seam flattened, particular- "lyat the toe' end whe're the stifieneriis. to engage, so" that a proper surface gvvillbe presentedfor it to engage upon and which will yp'ermitit to be placed; in position readily. After. the-shoe is thusassembled the last is -Withdrawn and; the shoevturned and thesoleis molded: ashetween the; forms 10 and .11 in the same manner as illustrated in Figure 2. it i The shoeha-vingbeen removed from the moldyingform, ,the box toeis inserted'in; position g h the sole to. finished form, smoothing the toe andthe liningistucked Within it, asshovvn in Figure 9, the stitch-ingQO causing the lining at t-hetoe to assume a pocket formation which readily fits: within the toe sti-fienerv and causes the lining tobe readily heldinplace therein The filler2lengages over the boxtoe and .the edges ofthe lining. The liningis then. Wet andwthe forepart of 'theshoje is drawn back mm heated form as shown in Figure hioutallthe Wrinkles in the I i s: i oned to C0 ifqlj smoothlyto they pjper; and. produces an excellfent inside s irfaceforthexslioei If astiffl Yener softened by,heat is e1nployed this per-. inits the stifienerto be shapedv smoothly and also causes the stifienerto-adhere to the-adjacent portions of the'shoe. The shoe is then taken oii the heated form; and is allowed to dry thoroughly so thatthe sole becomes thoroughly fixed in its molded condition. The

counter and shank piece are then placed in position and the shoe is then finished as here.-

inbefore described, a heated counter form bev ing employed 'if desired. Where previously inolded toe st-iffeners are employed the shoe is sole; in the usual manner, the last then being irenioved for the subsequent operations.

Having thus described certain embodiments of this, invention it illbe evident to those skilled in the art that many changes and modifications might be made therein Without departing from its spirit or scope as defined by the appended claims. l

Iclaim; I r 'i a 1. The method of-making turn. shoes which comprises lastingthe shoe vvrong side out, remov ng the last, turn ng the shoe, mold ng the sole to finlshed form and smooth ngthe I r toe portion of: the shoe overfa form, re'mov-" ing the shoe from the fo per t i g. th

shoe to dry, and finishing the/shoe.

' 2. The method otmaking turn shoes which V comprises lasting the'shoe Wrong'side out,

removingthe last, turning the shoe, molding 1-00 the sole'to finished form and smo'othingthe heel portionof-theshoe. over a form, remov-' ing the-shoe gtrom the form, permitting the shoe to dry, andfinishing. the shoe.

r 3. Theimethodof making turn shoes which comprises lasting the. shoe wrongfsidel out, removing the last, turning the shoe, molding thesole to finished form, and smoothing the heel portion of the shoe over a heatedforim removing the shoe fronithe form, permitting the shoe to dry, and finishing-the shoe. 1 I

L "The method of making turn shoes fwhioh comprises lasting theshoe Wrong side out,

removingthe last, turning. the shoe, molding, 1

and heel portions over forms,reinoving the shoe from the forms,.permittingthe shoe to dry, and finishingtheshoe.

'5. The'ine hodof t .compriseslasting the shoe Wrong side out, removing the last,.turning the shoe, molding and heel portionsover forms,.1 "ernoving the shoe f fm the forms, permitting the shoe .to

dry, and finishing; the shoe-- ofi a last;

6. The method or making'turn shoes which sole to form, jdrawin'gthe toeportion of the shoe over a form toshape' thetoe stiffener king turn shoes which;

.thesoleto finished form, smoothing the toe and smoothing the outer face thereof, removing the shoe from the form and drying and then finishing the shoe.

7. The method of making turn shoes which comprises lasting the shoe wrong side out with a tempered toe stiffener therein, removing the last, turning the shoe, molding the sole to form, drawing the toe portion of the shoe over a form to shape the toe stil'iener and smoothing the face thereof, removing from the form and permitting the shoe to dry, assembling a counter and shank piece in the shoe and tucking the lining, smoothing the outside of the shoe about the counter, and finishing the shoe.

8. The method of making turn shoes which comprises lasting the shoe wrong side'out with a tempered toe stiiiener therein, removing the last, turning the shoe, molding the sole to form, drawing the toe portion of the shoe over a form to shape the toe stifi'ener and smoothing the face thereof, removing from the form and permitting the shoe to dry, assembling a counter and shank piece in the shoe and tucking the lining, smoothing the outside of the shoe about the counter, and finishing the shoe ofi a last.

9. The method of making turn shoes which comprises fixing together opposite edges of a shoe lining at the toe, lasting the shoe wrong side out, stitching'the shoe, drawing the last, turning the shoe, molding the sole, inserting a previously molded box toe and tucking the lining therein, wetting the lining at the toe, pulling the toe portion over a heated form to smooth the lining and the forepart of the shoe upper, removing the shoe from the form, permitting the shoe to dry, and then completing the shoe. 7

10. The method of making turn shoes, which comprises lasting the shoe wrong side out on a last with the sole in temper, pulling the last, turning the shoe,and performing all the subsequent operations, including shaping and finishing the shoe ofi a last.

11. The method of making turn shoes which comprises lasting the shoe wrong side out on a last with the sole in temper, pulling the last, turning the shoe, and performing all the subsequent steps for completing the shaping of the shoe otl a last.

In testimony whereof I have aifixed my signature. 1

MILTON L DODGE. 

